21^st December
Left Barbados after completing a mountain of paperwork just writing the same details of the boat and myself in 4 different offices.
Barbados is not my kind of place it's for the rich, the cruise line passenger and party animals. Sleeping with earplugs in to keep out the noise of the beach clubs is not my idea of Christmas.
So I have come to Bequia in the Windward Islands (south of St. Vincent north of Mustque) It's just fantastic a bit like Salcombe as a harbour but with white beaches, Coconut Palms and Breadfruit trees. Shops that have the things I need 4 sail makers 3 Internet cafes etc. Cruise Liners don't come here but the biggest sailing ships in the world do. Last night 3 came in and 1 was the 5 masted Russian sail training ship with a complement of 1500 crew and trainees (currently the worlds biggest sailing ship) with 30 sails and when decked all over with lights its an awesome sight.
The 96 mile trip over was fast with a 25 knot following wind. It was so fast that I had spend 6 hours hove too waiting for dawn with the wind still driving the boat at 2 knots square to the wind so I did 3 hours on a starboard tack and 3 on the port just to hold position and it was rough. The C map computer charts were way out so it was a good job I didn't press on it the dark. Cleared customs, immigration ,health and Boat registration all at the same post office position in about 20 mins. and they did it throughly. Bank next door with an ATM so QED.
There are lots of Frigate birds around this Island they are sail planes and use thermals to get around instead of dynamic soaring which most sea birds favor.

Merry Christmas to everyone, TONY

Monday 29^th November
Left Mindelo harbor, Cape Verde Islands, at 7.30 am with no regrets. The radio net [I have a short wave radio receiver] forecast a fair wind for the next few days but with the big storms in the north Atlantic who knows.
  It was great to be back at sea with the blue water and flying fish. Passed close to the south tip of Sao Antao and motored the 5 miles through the wind shadow then out into the 15 knot trade wind. Had a bucket bath in clean sea water and fairy liquid. At mindelo there was sewerage in the sea and no showers so I  had to use my drinking water carefully for washing.
The wind rose steadily as night came on and began to move more easterly. The electric auto helm was used till 16.00 hrs then it was steady enough to set up the wind-pilot which was handy as the wind rose to 30 knots which is way beyond the capability of the auto helm.  2 reefs in the main sail, quite a big sea caused by a low pressure area near the Canary Islands resulted in a poor nights sleep.
30/11/04
The weather and boat position reports from the Atlantic crossing net at 9.15 GMT look good and I  am within 5 miles of a larger multi crew boat that left with me yesterday but is keeping further south.
As I walked along the starboard deck a great big Cockroach emerged from the Para anchor rode [rope]. Had to kick it of the boat, it flew off to the south , I  hope  this isn't the  start of an infestation. The sea began to build till the waves were 4 M high, but the wind was steady at 20 kts so I kept 2 reefs in the main because of the rolling. The jib didn't know which side it should be on and by evening I was worn out from fighting with the spinnaker pole which has torn down the short-wave radio aerial. For the night I set it on a port tack and left it. 1/12/04
In the morning we were only a couple of miles off track. Had 2 flying fish for breakfast and the waves were down to 2 M. A tropical storm is being tracked by the US coast guard to the north of my route. Made a crimped repair to the SSB radio aerial. Rigged goose wing with the jib part furled so as to get the maximum westerly heading. At 2 am a ships lights seen moving away very slowly.
2/12/04
By morning the wind had moved to the east and the waves were down to 2 M wind was 15 kts and I had a lovely days sail. At 15.00 a white Egret landed on the deck exhausted and very tame. So I opened a tin of tuna and put out some water  for it then stayed in the cabin so it could recover [poor bird will not make the 1600 miles to Barbados and the 400 to Cape Verde into wind would be very hard. Bird should have checked the flight could be safely made before setting out].
Early evening navigation is very easy because of the position of the constellation Orion, the 3 stars in the hunters belt lie dead astern as the night progresses the constellation passes over head and by dawn is on the bow.
3/12/04
The Egret left at 8.30 during the Atlantic crossing net broadcast [it's 1200 miles down wind to Brazil. Hope it makes it. Now I can catch up on my jobs. Set the spinnaker and got 4.5 knots out of very little wind. At 17.00 the spinnaker had to come down but the halyard [hoisting rope] jammed around the jib so getting it down was a bit fraught for a few minutes.
4/12/04
Weather forecast is good for the next 4 days [N.E. 15 knots] .Rigged the inner forstay closer to the bow so I can set a second jib in light winds. Took it down at 16.00 and set the spinnaker.
5/12/04
Lots of checking during the night [thank goodness the Wind-pilot automatic steering is working well]. At 4.30 the wind got up to 12 knots apparent so the spinnaker had to come down, this time I had the right technique and it came down very easily. Set up goose wing initially with squally showers, but by 10.00 it turned into a lovely day so put out the solar panels. Re-set the clock to GMT -3 [we have passed 37.5 W].
I 've just opened my first tin of butter and it's better than the tubs of Olive marj which just separate in the heat, it tastes better too.
6/12/04
Ran goose wing for 25 hours and covered 143 miles. The Atlantic crossing net tells me that boats that left with me are in better weather than those that are 2 days behind [and dropping back].They have rain, storms and thick cloud. Had a very heavy shower to day which was great as I could have a wash in fresh water, so I did the weekly wash as well. Ran the engine for an hour at night to charge batteries. Cariad is doing very well and loves these trade winds [140 miles in the day].
7/12/04
The morning was great but the wind dropped during the afternoon so I put up the spinnaker , but by night it was looking very threatening so took it in and set up goose  winged. About 4.00 all heck broke out, I woke to 30 knot wind with blinding rain and the spinnaker pole still up. Sorted it out then the wind disappeared along with the storm. So only 130 miles in the day.
8/12/04
One large flying fish for breakfast, must start fishing, some boats are self sufficient in fish [but they are multi crewed]. A very red sky at dawn confirmed the old saying `red sky in the early hours, showers' which were very heavy at times even though the barometer was steady at 1019 mb . The wind shifted into the SE and at 16.00 we went onto a port tack [wind from the left side]. At 20.00 the area of sky ahead went pitch black and to sail into it would have been very dangerous, so Put the motor on and headed south out of it and escaped the worst but there were 3 reefs in the main sail.
9/12/04
By dawn it went very calm, but by 8.00 it had picked up and the weather settled into a dull but hot day so I kept on keeping on.  At 20,00 I got caught goose wing with too much sail up. Sails were all over the place for 20 minutes then 2 reefs in the main and 50 percent of jib furled. By this time there appeared to be better weather ahead and slightly to the north. It looks promising for to-night and to-morrow. The weather forecasts out here are just comments on what is here with little attempt at prediction [still its all good clean fun and I'm learning so much so quickly]. During the night it rained heavily but no sail change was needed.
10/12/04
Got up at 5 am to a sky filled with stars and all in the right places. Had 2 cups of tea increased sail and away to go. On the radio net the boats behind me are in the trough of low pressure which is now behind me. It was a day dodging showers and getting away from the trough the sea was rough but the weather got better and the wind was fine.
11/12/04
So I was feeling good next morning then I saw the stitching had failed around the second reef pocket, out with sail needle, palm and thread and after 2 hours the temporary repair was complete with the boat still sailing lets hope it holds as I only have 500 miles to go. Tried to sleep during the day but it it was too hot. Decided to cook at 17.00 and spilled cooking oil on the cabin sole [floor] when an unexpectedly  big wave hit. So lots of cleaning. While eating I saw lightning to the north and east but heard no thunder. After washing up I tried to set the jib on the other tack but it got tangled then wouldn't furl [roll up] kept going until 23.00 then hove too and went to bed 5.00.
12/12/04
I furled the jib the wrong way using an adjustable spanner and tied it very securely and set up the inner forstay and set a small jib, all while under way. Only 98 Mlles done in the day, but the storm was skirted and I am happy with the jib even though the barometer has dropped slightly. Hot day with a beautiful sunset followed thunder storms.
13/12/04
At 3.00 the thunder storm with my name on arrived and I had to hand steer for 2 hours [the small jib was just right with 2 reefs in the main]. Dawn  came up and Increased sail then at 9.30 about 20 striped dolphins joined me. This was the only sea life seen in 2,000 miles. After reading the Bombard Story [Bombard a crazy French doctor voyaged from Monaco to the West Indies in a rubber dinghy and ate and drank only what he could get from the sea] I therefore expected to see masses of  sea life, may be it's the walls of death Tuna nets that are set in this area that have killed it all. At  12.30 I was taking down the whisker pole from the jib as yet another squall hit when it was snatched from my hands into the sea, goodbye pole. So I'm now on a jury rig with with a modification to take the big spinnaker pole.
14/12/04
It went well during the night as the weather improved and 122 miles were done in the day. I wanted to get into Bridgetown in daylight so I set the big Genoa jib in 15 knots of wind and Cariad did 132 miles in a 25 hour day [had to add another hour to get on Caribbean time].
15/12/04
Good weather forecast from the Atlantic crossing net [who were arranging help for a boat that had been demasted] this is the last day with only 38 miles to go after  7.30.
At 9.00 Barbados in sight [YES were going to Barbados].
Got into Carlisle bay at 14.00 but couldn't  get the Genoa down as it had jammed at the top of the mast [the sail is longer than inner forestay and the 1^st hank jamed on the swaged terminal]. So out with the rope ladder and up the mast in quite rough water and cleared the snag.
I was instructed by the port radio to go into the commercial harbor to clear customs, immigration and health. This is the harbor with the Queen  Mary 11 and as I drew abeam a white uniformed rating moved to the ensign Oh now I have to dip my flag to him but it's tied on really securely but with some difficulty it was done and acknowledging ensigns made my day. Went into the harbor and with assistance from an elderly couple who were passengers from the Q. M 11 moored up in Bridgetown docks. After getting my clearances I moved  to Carlisle bay which has  one the 10 top beaches in the world. White sand and beach parties every night [can I afford this??].
Tony

Yes I have made it Barbados. 17 days 2,010 miles at sea with only Meakin for company and I'm still sane (as if I ever was). An Egrret (small white Heron) did stop for a drink of water and a tin of Tuna during the trip but thats another story.
Will write the full log during the next day or two. If I can tear myself away from carlisle bay which is one of the 10 best beaches in the world, where "CARIAD" is anchored, you just get up put on truncks and dive into the super tropical pool (29 degrees C)to wake up.

At present I am in Mindelo harbour on the island of St. Vincent, Cape Verde waiting for the noth-east trade wind which will carry me to the Caribean (hope fully). The boats that have just left report very light winds so I will wait until Monday first light then go for it. There will be no update for 20 days or so. My weather prediction has generaly been better than average so it will probably be wrong this time??? Mindelo is a very poor sort of place (I sleep with a knife by my pillow) with lots more problems than it should have with one of the best harbours in the easten Atlantic. It will be good to leave especially as it?s such a let down after Sao Nichola which was lovely with very friendly people and great scenary.
Tony

After writing up the last report the wind was getting stronger when I got back to the boat, and by midnight it was up to 35 knots blowing straight into the harbour, adding to the waves and making them 3 metres or so, and I was only 200 metres from the shore. My second anchor (a Spade bought at the boat show) was set on too short a length of 8mm chain which broke at 2 am with a noise like a rifle shot. Fortunatly my trusty C.Q.R. held and despite the dinghy breaking loose I survived 'til morning along with 35 other yachts. By 11 am the wind had abated but the surf was really big and as "Cariad" was only 150 metres from the beach and surrounded by other boats that were not happy to up anchor in the conditions. All I coud do was use the riding sail to keep the bow on to the breakers. At 2 pm up anchor and out to safety with a lesson learned (don?t let other boats pin you in on a lea shore).
Next day Rik a South African helped me drag for the second anchor with a grapple hook that I made out of some 6mm hi-tensile re-inforcing rod I found lying about (David Evans do you know the shape code for a grapple hook). After about half an hour we hooked the chain and by using the swell retrieved the nearly new anchor. The dinghy had to be virtually bought back from the locals who cash in on these conditions. So I survived the fitter and ready to press on the 85 miles to Tarrafal, Ilas Sao Nicolas where the first thing to see was a yacht washed up on the beach and completely written off (It was an old Ferro concrete boat that had been on a swinging mooring)in Monday nights storm.
Sao Nicolas is a lovely Island particalarly on the north side where there is a forest and sufficient rain for agriculture (but not as we know it).
The highest hill is Punta Gordo at 1350 meters and on walking up on Wednesday found lots of Swallows, Kestrels and and a Sea Eagle. The island is very under developed with no Tarmac roads just the old Basalt Setts laid on sand smooth surface up (the Electric Board are putting cables under the road from the main port, Tarrafal towards the capital, Riba Brava) and it?s chaotic with no traffic management of any sort (but they get moving better than in England).
We have Kalabatic winds here and they are quite a pain, I can never leave the dinghy out because these winds can start at any moment just when you don?t expect it.

Porto Rico, Gran Canaria to Porto Palmiera, Sal, Cape Verde.
  It seems like weeks ago that I left Porto Rico at 7.30 on the morning of Saturday 30/10/04, it was flat calm but the Wind Guru forcast was for North-east trade winds to be blowing. After an hour the wind came up and the motor went off, dering day light I made very good progress and by evening there were 2 reefs in the mainsail and I was wearing my jacket for the first time in 2 months. By 3 in the morning I had full oilskins on. It all died down with the dawn (137 miles in the day)and after breakfast took out the reefs and made the most of the steady cool wind. The spinnacker pole is esential to Goose wing the jib but balancing the 5 metre long pole in one hand and trying to connect it to the sail at one end and the mast at the other is quite a performance, which has to be done every time there is a wind shift of more than 15 degrees towards the main sail (138 miles in the day).
On monday it became clear that I had been using too much electricty at night the leisure battry was down to 10.8 volts so ran the engine for an hour and made the decission to stop ussing lights and instruments unless there were ships about. No more electric auto pilot just the wind vane self steering. At 14.20 I was surounded by a big pod of Dolfins which had patches of grey on them and at 18.30 a lone swallow passed me heading south (128 miles in the day).At 8 am on Tuesday I passed into the tropics and determined to see how much I could get out of the boat. Sayed up till 2 am making the sails work realy hard, then put in 2 reefs and got some sleap (141 miles in the day).
The hard won miles paid off when the wind went light on Wednesday so I had a rest but still made 134 miles.
Friday was a lovely day though the sun was rather hot as I have now left the autumn behind. At about 3 am lights came into sight which I assumed to be the Island of Sal but the Light House that should be marking it was absent? I could have got into Porto Palmiera at 6.00 but was very unhappy to close the port in the dark as there were no navigation lights. So I hove too (that is getting the main sail to drive one way and the Jib sail backed and effectively working in the opposite direction, result boat stays put).One hour before daylight set off for Palmiera and arrived at dawn anchored up and had some sleep.
The Cape Verde Islands are Africa they don?t have rubbish collections and a phone call to the Hostelrie on Sunday cost me 25 euros (so no more phone calls). The mobile phone doesn?t work and the money machines only take Cape Verde cards. But the internet works so this will be my main communication. Went for a walk in the desert yesterday, it?s quite bleaque as desert locusts (big pink grasshoppers) have been blown over from the Sahara which is less than 100 miles away and are eating what little green there is. Water is a big problem here so thanks to Ricky and family for helping me fill tanks at Fuente Ventura.
I will be in these islands till about 27/11/04.
Tony

Well I am now in the tropics (passed the 22.5 North meridian on tuesday) will write up a proper log in the next few days. Just to let you all know that I am at Porto Palmeira, Sal, in the Cape Verde Islands. Only just under 6 days to do 805 miles, I?m knacked. All have a good bonfire night ( Graham Bailley do you still make fireworks?). Tony out

Correlago was a real break for me after all the work and hassles at Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Ricky, Sue, Jamie and Jack were there to pass on the new emergency tiller made out of Forest of Dean Ash, supplied by Bruce Morgan and machined very nicely by Peter Kirby. Thank you its perfect.
It was time to check the bottom of the "Cariad" so I asked the Landlady at the local pub if I could dry out on the little beach in front of her pub. With Jamies help we got the legs set up on each side of the boat to stop it falling over when the tide went out, then moved inshore until we ran aground anchors out bow and stern. Tide went out, cleaned the propeller and shaft, fixed new electrical anode on the shaft, cleaned and inspected hull (all in A1 condition), then waited 6 more hours till 11 pm when she finally floated off, every body and there dog came to look (a boat with legs is as rare as a camel with 3 humps on Fuerte Ventura).
Next day we all went surfing and did holiday things. So when I set off for El Heiro Island I had a thick head but it soon cleared and with a north-east wind we were past Puerto Rosario and as the Light House half way down Fuenta Ventura came into sight some flying fish whizzed past on the port bow. They take off on the crest of a wave, flap like crazy for 200 metres then crash. Landings dont seem to count, this must be the reason for them landing in the boat. Could any of you South Wales gliding instructors help???.
As I rounded the Light House the wind increased by 10 knots as it?s a wind acceleration zone Cariad went to 8 knots for 2 hours then the wind slowly died and as I left Fuente Ventura heading for the south of Gran Canaria it died so I went to sleep for 3 hours then set off in a light breeze and was at Gran Canaria by breakfast. Another lovely Island but very little wind.
Trying to get to El Hiero became very difficult as the wind swung westerly a day earlier than the forcast said it would. So I turned back to to Gran Canaria and put into Puerto Rico at Breakfast time almost 24 hours after I had gone by, such is life.
The marina is just what I wanted with a sail repair shop, engine works, Chandlery all run by an american, Brian Baptist who has all the contacts and parts plus a team of 12 that can fix almost anything marine.
How things have Changed since this used to be the end of the known world,then Cristophor Columbus did what I hope to do.
So to- morrow I set off for the Islas Cape Verde 750 miles south.
Tony

Five weeks working on "Cariad" at Santa Cruise de Tenerife is now at an end. I only had one day sightseeing around the island of Tenerife and to be honest I was glad to be away from the Marina del Atlantico. Many of the yachts are in storage waiting for the season to cross to the carabean, the showers are thick with cockroaches which worried me as it is possible to transfer them to the boat on your clothing. But with the help of Karl and Minda from Sydney Aus. there is a computer on board, sollar panels and an inverter to drive it, with world wide charts to guide me to anywhere I fanncy. So yesterday went over to Lobo island off Corralejo, Fuenteventura using the charts and the Evans family crewing.
The trip over from Tenerife started very well at 10.30 on Monday?18/10/04 with a very beautiful Square rigged trainning ship coming into he Harbour as I was leaving it,s decks were lined with the young crew all waving. Motored for an hour till I was out of the Islands wind shadow then as soon as the sails were up 4 F16 (Fighting Falcons) came and beat me up low level, they looked American? Cariad just flew on the southerly wind which we were lucky to have as this is the North-east trade wind belt.
The wind increased to 25 knots so put in a reef but by evenning I was able to shake it back out. During the night we meet one cargo ship and a cruise linner (with more lights on than a small town).
Coming a long the north coat of Fuentevetura as dawn was coming up the surf was smashing on to the desert beaches where they say the worlds longest surf wave can be ridden. Following the 30 metre depth line it was just the usual 2 metre high swell. The light house on Lobo Island didn,t seem to be working but Punta Toston was clear at 20 miles with 1 flash every 8 seconds. as we came into the little harbour at Corralejo at 9.30 am. you could clearly see the bottom in 30 metres of water. Anchored in 12 feet of water just off the beach 200 yards from a bar (140 miles in 23 hours).
Ricky, Sue, Jamie and Jack Evans arrived on Wednesday evening bringing me a spare rudder shaft, more Gurilla glue, post, books to read and a Christmass pudding which was very much appreciated.

I?ve swaped Santa Cruzes from La Palma to Tenerife, 100 miles to the east (yes I know it?s west I?m supossed to be going but even I cant get it right every time?).
Set off at 11 am on Tuesday with conflicting weather imformation BBC said NE 15 to 20 knots a Spannish forcast said 25 to 30 with gusts to 38. Actual wind was 20 so off the mooring and as I came out of the shelter of the haurbour wall the 3 meter waves hit me but I?d put in 2 reefs and the wind was less than 30 so press on. By 4 pm the time at which a decission had to be made to go on or return we were half way accross to Tenerife, so pressed on. As night came on so did the lights of Tenerife but the wind was turing to the east forcing us on to a starboard tack which resulted in no forward progress but stopped us hiting the Island. The distance between the waves was short but they were still 3 meters high and "Cariad" gets carried away with this sort of sea junping off the top of the waves and landing in the troughs with a heck of a bang. She doesn?t do it when I steer only when shes on the wind vane steering which cannot stop her antics, but I?ve got to sleap so it?s bang bang bang.
During the evening I thought I had seen flying fish and in the morning there was one in the cockpit, it was mortified (photo to follow). It was then that I noticed the 16mm diameter 100 meter long Para-Anchor warp (rope) had been washed out off it?s heavey plastic cable ties (it must have been rough) the shackles had held so just hauled it all in and will tie it more securely next time.
There were no ships during the night but tacking close to the coast meant checking every 30 minutes and changing tack every 2 hours.
Then just after dawn I saw what appeared to be a large fish just below the surface. It turned out to be a shoal of small dolfins , they were only about 1 meter long they swam slowly but could turn amasingly quickly and were great fun to watch.
Eventualy rounded Punta de Rouge light house and the wind droped so shook out the 2 reefs and got a preventer set up quick. Then the wind got up again and we shot off towards Santa Cruz with the angle to the wind increasing till we were running goose winged. The wind was wery flucky caused by catabatick effects from the mountainsfrom where air cooled during the night comes rushing down the vallies when it realizes the air below it is a lot warmer (hot air rises cold sinks). So your sailing along quietly when all of a sudden your hit by 30 knot gusts with no warning. Still these things are sent to test us.
Went into the northern marina but it was all new and no forign boats so I went down to the southern marina de Atlantico which had yachts of all nationalities and as we pulled in crews waved from boats I have met earlier in the journey. We seem to be gathering like swallows in the autumn.
So I?m at Santa Cruz de Tenerife for the next 4 or 5 weeks when I pop over to Correlegeo on Fuenteventura to meet Ricky, Sue, Jamie and Jack Evans.
Tony

Well it?s time to move on again just 100 miles to Tenerife. The stay here at La Palma has been realy good and the cost was reasonable to the point where I could aford to hire a car for a week. So I saw almost all of the Island which is quite breath taking with the senary changing from very resent volcanoes (San Antonio) to the worlds bigest volcanic crator which is now covered in lovely pine forest with many walks and the sea is realy warm to swim in.
On Saturday "Cariad" was in the local rigata and won the prize for first English boat round the course. The 2 inexperienced guys I had crewing for me were a bit weary by the end, but they learned a lot of new Engish language.  So Matt theres a cigar box won for you and the old guy who makes the cigars has a photo in his workshop of Winston Churchil in about 1950 and he is the boy just behind him on the dockside at Santa Cruze??
We have been visited by the Cunarder Q.E. 11 and P & O Oceania photos to follow.
The reason for my apparent slow progress is the need to be at the right places at the correct season. You may see pictures of hurricane Boris and if I set off towards the Caribean now then a similar Tropical Rotating Storm would be almost certain to engulf me so I don?t leave this side of the Atlantic until mid November when the water temprature drops to 26 degrees Centigrade or just under.
The sail tomorrow is going to be hard as these Islands should be explored from east to west taking advantage of the north-east trade winds. Still I have lots of time and "Cariad" goes into wind quite well so I?m looking forward to the challenge.
Tony
Tony

Santa Cruze, La Palma Friday 3^rd September 2004.
It was with much regert that I left Funchal, Madeira on Tuesday. The marina entance is dominated by the old Beates ex- yacht now set in concrete and used as an up-market resteraunt. This combined with a great firework display (Dave it was as good as Dartmouth) just as I was listening to "A Hard Days Night" on Saturday night had set off all those feelings of 60?s nostalgia. You know the morgage to pay the 7 day weeks working on Motorway, Dam and Power Station sites the wifes problems and waiting for the Stork to arrive with John & Peter.
Congratulations to Anna Matt and now Rachall Brown.
The first 10 miles were dead as the Island was masking the northerly wind, 2 other boats were just ahead of me going for different Islands in the Canneries the big french catamaran just went for it on the engine as the crew had to meet there children in Gran Cannaria. Andy in his fast Benito which he has just bought in France and is now sailing back to Victoria in Canada single handed went miles off track looking for wind then put up his Spinnacker and disapeared towards Africa. I just cruised on and the wind came up from the North-west with very hot sun (I must get the awning up before leaving the Cannaries)during the night I used the get up every 30 minutes system which works for me. Wednesday morning the wind droped a bit and as I had got over 100 miles in the first day I put up the spinnacker to get that extra 2 knots. As dark came the wind got up to 12 Knots so I dropped the spinnacker and went to Goose winged and "Cariad" just steered herself all night holding a steady 5 knots. I kept on wondering about Anna & Matt but it?s very quiet 100 miles from the nearest phone mast.
Thursday started as just another lovely day and got better. A big cloud ahead started to have a very solid base then a solid top rose above with 3 gem-stones (the European big telescopes one of which is the Issac Newton) La Palma ahoy. The wind decreased as I approached the island but it was so beautiful that I just went at 3 knots taking in the view and as I rounded the Cape 6 miles north of Santa Cruize the wind got up to 20 and "Cariad" went for it. We were in the harbour before I could re-check the book. Not a yacht in sight so where to go? the port radio (channel 71) closed 45 minutes ago, just local boats chating in spannish, so into the fishing habour which is very small and dropped the anchor. Went ashore but port office closed called at the police station to notify entry and went back to the boat. A guy (Roberto) helped me with the boat and has given me his mooring as his big old british built boat is out of the water at this time. This is most generous the only problem here is my lack of Spannish language skills even to thank poeple properly. So Iv? got out the Espania Viva book (the inhabitants of La Palma earflaps down).
Tony

My stay at Funchal Madeira will unfortunatly end to-morrow. I?ve got the move on bug and so it?s the Canary Islands next. Theres supossed to be a big volcano and the Issac Newton telescope on Palma so I think I?ll do that Island first.
Fuchal has been great with new friends made and such a beautifull Island. If only Peter France hadn?t had me painting "CARIAD" etc on the marina wall most of the today it would have been perfect, well it?s done now and should last for 4 to 5 years. Boats from all over Northern Europe paint there names on the walls but now there is no space left so my name is at the foot of the wall (picture to follow the disc is in the post).
Tony

Funchal, Madiera I had a very fast sail over from Porto Santo yesterday surfing down some waves with an indicated 10 knots, 48 miles in 6 hours.
Porto Santo didn?t live up to the build up my brother gave me of it. It?s a desert and should be green and pleasant. The islanders have decided to turn it into another Magaluf so all the water is going to people or onto impermiable areas and then straight into the sea through the sewers also 2 of the best springs have been buried under the new airport runway. Some of the out of the way bays and extinct vocanos are nice but it involves a lot of walking in 30 degree plus tempratures and very little shade.
Madiera is as different from Porto Santo as chalk is from cheese (mind you some of the Portugeus cheese is very chalky). Funchal is cool and beautiful with much less beurocracy, bands that play music (Porto Santo was into rave stuff) and the boats in the marina are going my way (transatlantic and further).The boat next to me belongs to "John" an Italian from Corsica who has come here with his wife via Gibralter, Plymouth and the Assores (15 days Plymouth to the islands). He has a big libruay of english sailing books.
I?ll be here for a week or so and for those with a web cam look out for the trouses up the mast.
Tony

Well the wind did finaly go into the north (the Nortarda or Potugeus trade wind) and at 8am on Friday 13^th  I set off from Sines with full tanks of fuel and water. Heading 240 out into the Atlantic on a calm morning with strong sunshine. Within an hour the engine was off and "Cariad" was making 6 knots which rose to 7.5 by midday so put one reef in and started to sort out the south going shipping lane. By 3pm we were through the north going lane and I was loking forward to 4 days without ships, fishing pots or hassels "wrong". Ships now route direct and only use shipping lanes when forced to do so, they do however try to stay in range of mobile phone masts so pass close (20 to 30 miles)to islands and coasts as the cost of sat. phones is very high and most crew don?t have them. The result of all this became clear in the night when ships started to appear from all directions often at very slow speed (empty bulk carriers traveling south or west saving fuel). So no sleep, to dangerous to stop or just go to bed and trust the radar alarm."Cariad" just flew through the night with 2 reefs in and the wind just aft of the beam. For those of a none nortical bent this means that the speed of the wind is reduced by the boats speed through the water when going down wind. In the morning the wind droped and I changed to the big Genoa which had been repaired at Sines. 142 miles covered in 24 hours so 480 miles could be done in 3.3 days wind permiting. So the wind droped to 10-15 knots  and I had 2 of the most beautiful days sailing ever. The nights continued to be dominated by ships mainly the ones heading from northern Europe to the west edge of Africa (Cape Verde) as they cross my track at a very shallow angle (Jamie no spell checker rules out "oblique" as I am very unsure of the spelling please try to add a checker, I'll pay). Day 4 put in over the 100 miles much of it during the sleepless night. Night 4 was very quiet and I began to doze off for a few minutes at a time, then tried setting my watch alarm for half hours and went to bed but I all ways awoke just before it went off.This is to be my long voyage technic probably with a kitchen timer as my watch is the second best chrinometer I?ve got and changing the alarm every few minutes in the dark is bound to cause a problems. Oh by the way I am now starting to get my possition using the sextant (meridin passage only so far and out by up to 20 miles). Day5 wind down to 8 knots and close hauled very slow but such a lovely day (nearly as good as in the Alps earlier in the year but warmer).
At 2pm on Monday Porto Santa hove into view right on the bow (thank you NASA for putting up the GPS system you have changed the face of the planet by making it available and threfore accesable all who want to see it).
What an island the approach is like looking at a film set from Lord of the rings all spiky and volcanic.
Went into the harbour where a jet ski was trying to tow a large Portuguse yacht into the marine with engine failure.
Nelson the guy my brother has told me to lookout for appeared in a fast boat and got me into a bearth  dead beat but very satisfied. So I can't see my leaving for at least a week at least.
Tony

"Cariad" now has the Para-anchor set up and the SSB radio arial is set to recieve weather fron Gibraulter so in the morning Ihope to set off for Porta Santa the smaller of the Madera Islands. Two german boats set off earlier to-day as the wind has moved into the north. So wiil not in touch for 4 to 6 days. Tony

Continued
So there I was at this poor marina in Penice so even though the weather was misty off I set and about 2 hours later it turned to fog so I closed the coast and when the depth started to reduce quite rapidly through the hook out and anchored by a crab pot (so I could check if the anchor draged).
Three hours later the fog cleared and there I was only 300 metres from a rock face. Pressed on to a very expossed anchorage (but the weather was very quiet)at Ericaceira rowed ashore and there to great me was a GNR (police) and the local Fiscal (emigration?) and I had left my documents on the boat. So I told them that I needed a beer now, so they took me to the police station in there Landrover 90 Defender and let me have 2 ice cold beers free from there fridge. By then I was in a better mood and rowed back and got the papers for them. Great little town with surf beaches.
Next day the wind was blowing into the tiny harbour and I was glad to get back to tacking into wind but when Cabo Raso was passed the wind went round to the north and I cruised into Cascais which is a realy Estaril (where the F1 Grand Prix of Portugal is held). Anchored for the night as the marina looked expensive. Set off crossing the River Tagos estuary in a foce 4 on the nose as usual but with a little motor I got passed Cabo Espichel which is very impresive (If only I could get the pictures onto the web site?. Pressed on to Sines which I had decided from the pictures was just a small town (which it is) what I didn?t take in was that it can take super tankers up to 500,000 tonnes. well with the swell being so big as I approached the breakwater it came as quite a shock to be mixed in with Gas and Oil tankers plus big tugs flying all over the place. The marina is very good as it should be at the birth place of Vasco Dagama and only 12 euros a night, have got my torn jib ripaired and am preparing for the crossing to Porto Santa in the Madiras when the weather is right

Sorry to be so long getting back on the net but it?s taken 6 days to do Portugal as the winds have been a bit airy fairey to say the least.
Left Bayona in Spain on 2^nd August and worked my way down the coast to the Rio Minho(the river that is the boundary with Portugal). At this point I was struck by the vast number of floats which mark Lobster,crab and fishingline pots, this was to continue right through the Portuguese coast in depths of water up to 150 metres. Turned into Viana do Castello lovely spot dominated by the Basilica on the hill and the river crossed by a bridge designed by Effel (the tower man from Paris) had to spend the day looking at the bridge which carries road (7.5 tonne limit) and rail cars. It failed it?s inspection with the rusted through sections of the pedestrian walkway which give a lovely view of the river below and open to access by buses giving special concern as did the main girder cut 30% through by high load impact damage. But it?s still there which was more than you could say for Porto (Lexin docks) my intended next stop which blew up in a gas explosion closing the marina. So I went to Averio by an airbase at St. Jacinto. The book said to be carful and arrive half an hour befor high water which I did but the water in the harbour mouth had 2 foot steeps in it and was boiling worse than around the Seven Bridge  "Cariad " just ploughed through and shot up the river doing 10 Knots over the ground so I nearly missed the turn into the milatary area where I was meet by a small army /airforce launch which inspected my papers. Anchored with 4 other boats all british one of which was a Sader 34 (Pilgrim 2) the same class as "Cariad". Went into the town where a large beer was only 1.20 euros (just think of that Williams).
The next day was poor sailing into a light head wind which died about 8 at night so I anchored off the beach in the middle of know where and spent the night being tossed all over by the swell and kept awake by the crashing of the serf on the beach 400 meters away. Up anchor at dawn and off in a brisk northerly that I hoped was the Portuguese trade wind starting at last. got to Penice a marina at a seaside town by 6 pm. 25 euros a night and vertualy no facilities.
Will write more tomorrow as I have a good internet set up at Sines.
Tony

Tony is currently in Sines, where he is staying for about a week, then he moves onto Madeira. Hopefully there should be a more in depth progress report soon!

I am now in Baiona (also Bayona) I left Camarinas on Thurday evening and went over to Muxia a little fishing town and anchored for the night as it?s free and 3 miles nearer to Cape Finnistere. During the evening meet a  family from Switzerland who always holiday at Muxia as the wife is local so I learned a lot about the area and how it has developed so rapidly in the last 10 years (with our EC grant money). Managed to get a shipping forcast at 5.40 your time and set off for Cape Finnistere wind a bit weak especialy as the big jib is in the bag for ripairs.
Since the sinking of the tanker a couple of years ago the shipping has been moved 30 miles out so no ships for me to move. The coast here is very intimidating and localy known as The Costa Del Mort (coast of death) and as there are tiny boats 3 and 4 miles out to sea with one man in fishing you can see why. It was about 2 miles passed the Cape that I noticed there were small crabs swimming all around "Cariad" they were only about 3" across the shell but they went on for 3 to 4 miles so there must hve been millions of them may it was a the full moon the next day that set them off on there journey?
Fairly uneventfull down to Bayona by which time it was dark but it?s a good harbour accessible day and night (the book says). So there I am doing 6 knots autopilot on running into the harbour fairway when theres a lot of shouting in spannish and waving of torches from rowing boats who are night fishing right in the entrance (about 10 to 15 dinghy?s) I got the message and wove a course round them anchored up and went to bed near a vagely familiar looking american ketch.
In the morning I called over to the ketch as it had a brittish (red) ensign. As I passed the sturn the name "Joshua" made the connection it was a replica of the Spray Joshua Slocums boat the first to circumnavigate the world single handed. Roy the owner showed me round it?s a foot longer than "cariad" see the photos. During the afternoon as I was going around the castle where Christopher Columbus arrived back at after "Finding the new world" The replica of the spray left going north (Roy is going to Brittany for the summer). What a sight she was making 6 knots and seemed to be doing beter than the modern yachts around her. Well thats all for now may move tomorrow.
Tony